Baikal of Wonders
The land of Baikal region in Russia has always been sacred for the local indigenous peoples – buryats. And shamans who could talk to local gods were revered as a hereditary caste of the chosen. After 70 years of stagnation the religious faith of their ancestors began to revive. But even so locals refer to shamans just as to healers now. Many of shamans themselves are not aware of their destiny until, as they say, they won’t get a clear sign from Father Sky. To preserve their culture they had to create professional unions, organize festivals, scientific conferences.
In the wake of the popularity of the new-age culture the lake Baikal is mostly presented in guidebooks as the sacred center of the shaman’s world instead of the rare nature reserve. There are many tours offering visits to “the places of power”, advisory services from an “expert”, participation in ceremonies and sacred holidays. Amulets, totems and “real shaman drums” are in demand in local souvenir shops. I went there to check what’s in this image and how much it costs.
All my heroes are pictured at their workplaces: either at the offices of local religious organizations of shamans, either at home.
Photos and text by Alina Desyatnichenko
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- Khuzhir settlement, next to Shaman rock. © Alina Desyatnichenko
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- Shaman rock is the promontory in the middle of the Western coast of Olkhon island on the lake Baikal, one of the nine Holy places of Asia. © Alina Desyatnichenko
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- Irkutsk city, in the office of Local religious organization of shamans “Baikal”. © Alina Desyatnichenko
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- According to Rosstat, 1173,3 thousand of tourists visited the Irkutsk region last year: 1044,5 thousands were from Russia and 128.8 thousand were foreign. © Alina Desyatnichenko
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- Bilchir settlement, at home. © Alina Desyatnichenko
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- The cape Khoboy is the most Northern cape of Olkhon island on the lake Baikal. Buryat pagans revered this place as sacred. © Alina Desyatnichenko
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- Angarsk city, in the yurt of Local religious organization of shamans “Forever blue sky”. © Alina Desyatnichenko
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- A drum is an equipment dedicated only to initiated shamans. As soon the shaman had progressed in the hierarchy, so the number of drums increased. © Alina Desyatnichenko
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- Ust-Ordynsky settlement, in the yurt of Local religious organization of shamans “Heavenly lights”. © Alina Desyatnichenko
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- Tarasun is a traditional buryat so-called “milk vodka”, one of the essential ingredients mostly of all modern buryat shaman ceremonies. © Alina Desyatnichenko
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- Irkutsk city, at home. © Alina Desyatnichenko
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- There are local religious organizations of shamans: “Heavenly lights” in Ust-Ordynsky Buryat district, “Baikal” in Irkutsk, “Forever blue sky” in Angarsk, etc. © Alina Desyatnichenko
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- Elantsy settlement, in the yurt near by home. © Alina Desyatnichenko
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- Sagaan-dali is a low evergreen shrub that grows on the shores of the lake Baikal. Locals believed that this herb can prolong life, cure almost any disease. © Alina Desyatnichenko
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- Irkutsk city, at the kitchen in the residence. © Alina Desyatnichenko
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- Shaman-stone is a cult rock ledge at the source of Angara river. According to legend, the Master of Angara river Ama Sagan Noyon lives here. © Alina Desyatnichenko
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- Angarsk city, in the “working” yurt of Local religious organization of shamans “Forever blue sky”. © Alina Desyatnichenko
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- Spirits of ancestors descend grace and happiness from heaven through horsehair from the upper world. Black horsehair is considered as an attribute of doctoring. © Alina Desyatnichenko
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- Bayanday settlement, in his “working” house- © Alina Desyatnichenko
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- Ongon is a deity, a guardian spirit of an ancestor or a whole clan. © Alina Desyatnichenko
